>Ghanaian Internet Community

> I have since some time back collected Ghanaian blogs. They are not easy to find, but every now and then I stumble over one. Last week it was Holli’s Ramblings with insightful comments on life in Ghana and hilarious comic oneliners. Today I found KOB, Fred and Nana-Kofi’s attempt to hype Ghana and Kofi’s/Annansi’s blog like mine trying to influence the image of Africa and Ghana (only that he in his business lingo calls it “branding”).

I have already discussed with another Ghanaian blogger bringing all of these bloggers together IRL. Until I do, if you’re blogging in Ghana and is not on my list, contact me!

The pic stolen from Holli.

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>Me Tiri Ye

>
The heading means “I feel lucky” in Ghana’s biggest local language Twi. And that is just how I felt stumbling across Google Twi Kasa – Google in Twi!

I mean, it isn’t strange, its the first language of 40 percent of Ghanaians, which translates into some 10 million people. For some perspective that’s more people than the whole Swedish population!

In the official statistics Internet users in Ghana are still few, but on the street in Accra and other bigger cities there are many Internet cafes (most successful is this one), information technology courses are popular and social networking sites for Ghanaians keep springing up. Some hope Ghana will follow in India’s footsteps and become an IT-economy. Well, then this is a definite first step.

Pic generated with this site.

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>Ghana Graduation

> Yesterday I met with my sister-in-law. She is a wonderful, easygoing person and very easy to talk to. We sat down and discussed all different kinds of things; Ghanaian versus Swedish food, what to do in the weekend, how our careers are moving along etc. We laughed together and she vowed to soon come visit me. As I was leaving I wanted to give her some of the fresh corn (in Ghana maize) I was carrying in a big, black shopping bag.

– I got too much, all of this I bought for 1 GHC, so please help me out!

And then it happens. As my sister-in-law picks out a couple of corn cobs she, having lived in this town all her life, asks me, the obroni-new-kid-on-the-block, where I’ve gone to buy so much for so little. Bursting with pride I tell her what corner of the market I went to, feeling like I just graduated with a degree in Ghana Street Smartness.

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>Morning Walk

> I leave the house around seven thirty after having waved goodbye to my husband ( he leaves for work around 6.45 ).

I lock my gate with a heart on it and criss-cross through my neighborhood, saying my “goodmornings” to the people I meet. I turn onto Hospital Road and follow it for about 15 minutes. There is a lot of traffic, lotto kiosks, chicks, kids going to school, food being sold, craftsmen lining up their produce like sofas or baskets, and taxis that don’t mind me walking briskly in jogging shoes and stop to ask where I am going. Sometimes, a friend will drive by, like this morning the neighbor in the black pick-up. His window is already down so he just slows down, stopping traffic, and shouts to me across the road

So, you have started your exercise again?

I have. Interestingly, it seems like it is as much an exercise for the mind as for the legs. Walking is really the best way to think. I think about the car I am going to buy, what I will do this weekend and why dragonflies are not considered scary, but beautiful.

My legs move almost automatically.

I stop and become standing for a while trying to cross the busy Hospital Road to get to my destination, a pool. There I will emerge in the water to chill myself, because even though it is just eight in the morning I am sweating. Before I enter the pool premises I pass by the Christian Vertical(!) School. Kids are sweeping the schoolyard, attending to a fire of scraps and rubbish when they suddenly get interrupted by the bell. They line up as I watch them from the dirt road and start to sing.

God bless our homeland Ghana.

In the pic the jogging shoe that does not impress taxi drivers.

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>New Pet

>The other day when my husband was entering our house in the evening he saw something running sideways next to his foot…

…it turned out to be a 15 cm (6 inches) long crab with big claws!

Since we live a 10 minute drive from the seaside, it probably didn’t walk to our neigborhood, but more likely escaped from someone who had bought it to make soup. The local specialty Palmnut soup is not quite the same without whole, fresh crabs, hence they are bought alive.

The – in my eyes enormous – crab has now been adopted as our pet and lives in a cold box in our kitchen feeding off toast and tomato. However, it doesn’t have a name yet. What do you think we should name it?

In conclusion, there is not only rain in Africa, but also plenty of seafood!

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>Frustrations

>Everyday life in Ghana can be mindnumbingly (is that a word?) frustrating at times. Like today when I realize that after twenty phone calls (!) I still have three (!!!) problems with Ghana Telecom.

My Internet has been down for two weeks, since yesterday there is also no tone when I lift the reciever and finally the keys for 1, 8 and 9 are not functioning on my handset. The people I talk to say they will call me back (which they don’t), that they will send someone (but noone ever shows up), that I should “relax” (no comment) or that it is not their job to solve Internet issues/handset problems/dead lines (also they don’t know who is responsible).

I want to scream, shout and cancel all my business with aforementioned company!

But then, like the sun after a heavy rain, within minutes a van pulls up to fix my line, I can call customer service and they reboot my Internet and, well the handset still cant be used to dial 1, 8 or 9, but I feel fine. And as I go to the market area to pick up a parcel (thanks mom!) I buy two ripe mangoes, two huge avocados and a pineapple for no money and with my heavy load I get the widest smile from a trotro driver.

-Let me help you!

he says in the local language.

And finally I get it.

In the pic: The Community 1 market in Tema.

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>Cutting Edge Chiefs

> Ghana has next to its modern democracy a system of traditional leaders or chiefs. They are well organized and each “stool” or “skin”, that is chieftancy, play an important ceremonial role, but are also involved in solving family disputes, managing land assets and facilitating development collaboration. Sometimes they are also important politically, even though that is forbidden by law.

Passing by a newly constructed commercial building in my area, I was startled to see this banner: Opening Soon Chieftancy Consultancy. It looks like traditional rulers now can be reached through consultancy firms! This might just be the best example so far of tradition meets modern day life.

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>Independent Celebration

>
Today is Ghana’s Independence Day. It is a public holiday and there is a huge parade in Accra which I had planned to attend. But then a Ghanaian friend of mine told me that these parades consists mainly of

school children standing in the scolding sun and big men enjoying themselves

I thought that I can see every day and changed my mind. Today I will be celebrating Ghana’s 51 years as a sovereign state by smelling the flowers in my garden.

In the slideshow: Ginger, Bourgainvillea, Marigold, Lilly, Hibiscus, Papaya and Green Peas. All in bloom right now!

Update: Also Nwia feels the same about the Independence Day parade (Mr. Sexy being Ghana’s president John Kuffuor):

I haven’t celebrated this huge day in Ghana for a long while. I don’t even know how I am going to celebrate it. As you guessed, it’s a holiday so most of us are staying at home. Not me. What will I do if I stay at home? Watch the 8th and final independence parade under Mr. Sexy Eyes’ watch? Not enough. The man would not find the faces of the hundreds of children who’ll have to stand under the scorching sun for hours at the Independence Square sexy.

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>Fotball Fever

> Africa Cup of Nations 2008 is now filling the minds, streets and stadiums of Ghana. Allegedly more Ghanaian flags are flying around town than when Ghana celebrated 50 years of independence last year. I have discussed the reason for this with some friends, and the analysis seems quite clear – independence was political – the ruling party NPP were criticized for spending too much on the festivities, hence any opposer probably was inclined to not join the celebrations last year.

Fotball, on the other hand is “non-political”, and as a consequence everybody can join. The Ghanaian red-yellow-green flag with a black star can it attached to cars or t-shirts, scarfs or hats and even full outfits. An example to illustrate the extent of the fotball craze: yesterday at driving school half of the class including the instructors had CAN 2008 t-shirts on! It is quite nice to be a part of a massmovement, but sometimes it also goes too far..many schools and universities have postponed their going back after xmas to mid february when the cup is over…

Anyway, I was lucky to be able to cheer the Ghanaian national team, the Black Stars, to victory at the opening match at the Accra stadium. What a party!

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>Trying To Fit In

> I have tried some different approaches to integrate into Ghanaian society. I have had dresses made in Ghanaian materials and styles, eaten the spicy foods (with my right hand of course) and learned the difference between the different starchy staples. I have drank Star beer and ginger juice, cheered for Kotoko Hearts in soccer and come to appriciate that in social situations providing details is not required (i.e. saying “I’m coming, eh” when leaving).

I have reached some understanding into the culture and I walk my guests out- longer than to the gate -, also I argue about small change when I think the taxi is too expensive and I can sustain a discussion about Ghana’s first president, Kwame Nkrumah for hours.

But by far, the most efficient way to become a part of my new world has been trying to pick up the local language, Twi. Me da wo ase (thanks) and Afehyia pa (Happy New Year!) has made people laugh and take to me like no dress or taxi fight ever did. How I wish that in my homeland Sweden a tack or gott nytt! could do the same for those trying to integrate there.

In the pic from yesterday I try to fit in to a kids pool area in a seaside restaurant in Tema.

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>Oh Lord Won’t You Buy Me…

> On New Year’s Eve, a friend came by to ask me what I wanted God to do for me in 2008 so that she could pray for me in church the same night. In Ghana, New Years is an important church event more than anything else. The question surprised me and since I am not really a believer and hence don’t know what to ask God for, I answered

Well, I think I’d like to learn how to drive.

My friend looked at me disapprovingly and pointed out that it in a way already has been granted since I have signed up at the driving school.

Yeah, you are right,

I hear myself saying. With surprising determination I continue,

Then I’d like a car.

What? Has it come to that? A car? For the new year, I don’t wish to become a better person or to make the world a better place. I ask for a gasdriven vehichle of my own. Oh Lord, help me.

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